Why am I doing this? I am a working jeweller in Southsea Hampshire UK and have been so for 30 years this year! Over this time I have accumulated a lot of information which may or may not be useful to someone and so I have decided to share what I have learned. Just in case you are wondering the picture is Pompey under a blanket of fog!
Large Diamonds
Not interesting because of its complexity or unusualness but because of the size and value of the stones involved. I have been asked to mount 2 x 9mm, H, VVS diamonds in simple 4 claw 18ct white gold earstuds. The stones will retail at approximately £15,000 pounds each .
I have ordered 2 double gallery settings from Domino and a pair of pre-made posts and then cut 2 discs from 18ct white sheet approx 1mm thick which I have filed to size and shape with a tapered side so that the disc fits snugly into the hole at the back of the setting. After tapping them home with a hammer I have soldered them into place with 18ct white medium solder and filed them flush, then drilled and inserted the posts (0.9mm post 0.9mm hole) which are soldered with 18ct white easy solder.
The settings are then dressed to remove casting flashing and marks and polished with various pendant motor fittings to get into all the nooks and crannies before being set with the diamonds. I'm not usually affected or worried about setting expensive stones but in this case once they have been set and the final claw has been pushed down into place I find that I am shaking slightly and very relieved.
The claws are now dressed and rounded before being given a final polish and ultrasonic then rhodium plated all over.
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